When I wander
around my neighborhood I walk on hastily laid concrete slabs, grass growing out
of the cracks in and gaps between them. When I shower, I stand in an eroded
plastic booth tarnished by chalk. When I drive my car through never-ending
suburbs, I pass by buildings revetted with fake brick walls and wooden houses
in advanced stages of disrepair. The floor of my room resembles parquet but is
in fact imprinted synthetic foil, and the sink I wash my hands in is faux
marble. My old apartment even had wooden window shutters that were unmovably
mounted on the walls and even if they were to be moved, their size wouldn’t
cover all of my window.
One thing is for
sure. Here, it is not about the real thing. It is about an illusion of the
real. The fact that it is a replica, in most cases a pretty obvious one,
doesn’t seem to bother much. But the fact that a lot of things aren’t what they
seem or promise to be isn’t something uniquely American, although it’s one of the
big stereotypes about the U.S. It’s something that one encounters on every
continent. To me, more importantly than the illusion itself, is that the
illusion is short-lived. It’s meant to be. There is not much interest in building
something touchable, visible with the aspiration of it being long-lasting. As
opposed to ideas, concepts, and dreams of which this country seems to live on
more than on anything else.
I don’t know any
other country I’ve been to that is as obsessed with the future and fixated on
the new, the innovation as this one. Get up. Move on. Don’t look back. There’s
a bright future ahead. Yes we can. These are the kind of phrases that are
thrown at you constantly. To be fair, so far I’ve been to only about 20 out of
over 190 (sovereign) countries and some memories are kind of blurred, for this
or that reason. But the longer I am here the more I realize how much
architecture charged with history and things that are or at least seem
long-lasting and meaningful matter to me, and how much the U.S. lacks them. Leipzig’s
cobblestone pavement. Riding a bike on it is a pain in the ass (literally) but
it looks gorgeous. Actual parquet. A metallic bathtub. Gründerzeit houses.
These things gives
confidence and reduce fear, fear of the unknown, and especially the uncertain. These
cities I live in and agglomerates I drive through in this country are not only
new but are built precipitantly and lovelessly. The result is an occasional
sense of despair, a feeling of being lost in a place that utterly lacks meaning
and consistency. The fact that all of this matter to me is quite telling, I’m
more German than I want to be and admit. But maintaining, preserving and caring
for structures, institutions or the environment, in short the tangible things
that are at hand, is something we, and I, find pleasure. It’s not a coincidence
that we (not me particularly) have elected a chancellor three times in a row
whose conduct was always more characterized by maintaining the status quo
instead of governing and who faces the strongest opposition in her political
career after switching to actually bold policies. The flipside is that we are,
and I am particularly, occasionally afraid of uncertainty, progress and new
things, and therefore clutch at the past, (perceived) present and try to
(sometimes desperately) find meaning. One can say that this is what leads to
German cravenness, but it has something soothing to it, and yes, something
slumberous as well.
Es gibt keine Ewigkeit im Reich der Dinge.
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